Except when it, uh, makes sense for them to.
New bike time. Most important thing to remember is that any fatbike, for me, is always going to be meant for snow ~90% of the time.
I may get a wild hair to do something requiring added float in the non-snow months, but those trips are the exception, and pretty much any geometry will work on soft, unfrozen surfaces.
Key word above = geometry. I had a custom frame built because although everyone seems to make a fatbike these days, none of them come anywhere close to geometry that really, truly works on snow. 99.9% of the people buying and riding fatbikes these days don't know any better, and 90% of them don't care. Most are simply happy looking down on their gee-whiz bulbous tires, thinking that the tires are the most important thing.
Pictured here with summer kit (fork, post, grips) and wheels.
Heirloom stem. Single pinch bolt for ease of turning the bars sideways--when strapping the bike onto a packraft, or stuffing the whole thing into a bush plane.
Heirloom bars. They hold ~12oz of liquid, most often denatured alcohol.
Horizontal strut for ease of portage. Fatbikes can be ridden lots of places that normal bikes cannot, but they still have their limits. And since I usually ride with a framebag in place, that strut becomes my suitcase handle.
Proto? Hopefully not for long. Running 'em tubeless at ~13psi on Derby rims.
26t ring is plenty for where/how I ride it.
It's the little things.
Love the clean functionality of this cockpit.
Honestly, I do not and will not ride this bike much for 10 months of the year. But I cannot imagine being entirely without a floaty chassis. Those other ~2 months it'll get used enough to justify it's existence many times over.
EDIT: I'm getting lots of inquiries about the geometry that I used on this chassis, and how I arrived there. I've posted a micro-treatise on exactly this subject in a place where intelligent discussion could happen, but probably won't. Check it out, and feel free to ask questions there.
Thanks for checkin' in.